1 00:00:05,840 --> 00:00:06,340 ♪ 2 00:00:10,135 --> 00:00:13,137 Modern Turkey was founded in 1923 3 00:00:13,138 --> 00:00:16,390 on the principles of secular, democratic statehood 4 00:00:16,391 --> 00:00:18,977 after centuries of empire. 5 00:00:18,978 --> 00:00:22,605 It has been the most turbulent year in a decade 6 00:00:22,606 --> 00:00:25,191 of Turkey's political history. 7 00:00:25,192 --> 00:00:27,026 Turkey has set a new course. 8 00:00:27,027 --> 00:00:30,864 One that many hoped would carry it into the European Union. 9 00:00:30,865 --> 00:00:33,199 There's clearly a significant portion 10 00:00:33,200 --> 00:00:34,909 of the Turkish population that's not happy 11 00:00:34,910 --> 00:00:36,619 with the policies 12 00:00:36,620 --> 00:00:38,705 of the democratically elected government. 13 00:00:38,706 --> 00:00:41,290 But things have changed. 14 00:00:41,291 --> 00:00:42,583 They are changing. 15 00:00:42,584 --> 00:00:44,042 You get clashes erupting, 16 00:00:44,043 --> 00:00:46,212 demonstrators throwing rocks. 17 00:00:46,213 --> 00:00:48,757 And what happens next has 18 00:00:48,758 --> 00:00:51,300 implications far beyond Turkey. 19 00:00:51,301 --> 00:00:58,182 ♪ I took a walk through this beautiful world ♪ 20 00:00:58,183 --> 00:01:03,771 ♪ Felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ 21 00:01:03,772 --> 00:01:09,652 ♪ Found something good in this beautiful world ♪ 22 00:01:09,653 --> 00:01:15,449 ♪ I felt the rain getting colder ♪ 23 00:01:15,450 --> 00:01:18,995 ♪ Sha la la la la 24 00:01:18,996 --> 00:01:22,289 ♪ Sha la la la la la 25 00:01:22,290 --> 00:01:25,043 ♪ Sha la la la la 26 00:01:25,044 --> 00:01:29,381 ♪ Sha la la la la la la 27 00:01:54,197 --> 00:01:57,242 It has been a turbulent year for Turkey. 28 00:01:59,578 --> 00:02:03,707 And I arrive in Istanbul at the moment of a critical election. 29 00:02:05,667 --> 00:02:07,376 The question on everyone's mind 30 00:02:07,377 --> 00:02:09,837 is whether the current president and his ruling party 31 00:02:09,838 --> 00:02:12,633 - will win a large enough majority to change - the constitution, 32 00:02:12,636 --> 00:02:16,845 Potentially allowing him to stay in power indefinitely. 33 00:02:22,517 --> 00:02:24,978 These have been good times for some. 34 00:02:24,979 --> 00:02:27,127 Particularly in the construction and 35 00:02:27,128 --> 00:02:29,273 development business. 36 00:02:29,274 --> 00:02:33,486 And fearful ones for others. 37 00:02:33,487 --> 00:02:35,780 They are particularly concerned about what happens next, 38 00:02:35,781 --> 00:02:38,659 for instance, in the Kurdish parts of town. 39 00:03:03,851 --> 00:03:06,644 ♪ 40 00:03:06,645 --> 00:03:08,104 Our polls are opening. 41 00:03:08,105 --> 00:03:10,023 Turkey's voters choose a new parliament, 42 00:03:10,024 --> 00:03:13,110 - which could lead to big changes in the country's - political system. 43 00:03:15,194 --> 00:03:16,216 The ruling justice and 44 00:03:16,217 --> 00:03:17,237 development parties 45 00:03:17,238 --> 00:03:19,448 expected to take most of the seats. 46 00:03:19,449 --> 00:03:20,951 But how much power the 47 00:03:20,952 --> 00:03:22,451 president actually has 48 00:03:22,452 --> 00:03:25,245 will be determined by the success or failure 49 00:03:25,246 --> 00:03:26,999 of the Kurdish Party. 50 00:03:30,711 --> 00:03:32,421 The HDP, originally a 51 00:03:32,422 --> 00:03:34,130 Kurdish political party, 52 00:03:34,131 --> 00:03:36,050 has sought to unite the disparate voices 53 00:03:36,051 --> 00:03:37,967 calling for change 54 00:03:37,968 --> 00:03:41,303 in response to 13 years of what has essentially been 55 00:03:41,304 --> 00:03:44,974 one-party rule by the AKP. 56 00:03:44,975 --> 00:03:51,190 So history, whatever it might be, is about to happen. 57 00:03:53,608 --> 00:03:56,048 Just in the past hour, polls have closed in the country's 58 00:03:56,049 --> 00:03:58,488 parliamentary elections. 59 00:04:00,490 --> 00:04:02,492 ♪ 60 00:04:03,952 --> 00:04:06,370 Voters in Turkey have just shaken up the country's 61 00:04:06,371 --> 00:04:10,083 political landscape in a major way. 62 00:04:10,084 --> 00:04:13,127 They said no to placing Recep Tayyip Erdogan 63 00:04:13,128 --> 00:04:15,838 in his push for more power over the constitution. 64 00:04:15,839 --> 00:04:17,570 The ruling AKP party did not 65 00:04:17,571 --> 00:04:19,299 win the majority 66 00:04:19,300 --> 00:04:20,968 its president had hoped for. 67 00:04:20,969 --> 00:04:23,763 In fact, they lost seats in parliament, 68 00:04:23,764 --> 00:04:26,473 and for the first time the pro-Kurdish party 69 00:04:26,474 --> 00:04:31,563 gained enough votes to earn a real voice in the government. 70 00:04:38,445 --> 00:04:41,823 ♪ 71 00:05:03,137 --> 00:05:06,014 ♪ 72 00:05:28,620 --> 00:05:30,685 We are at the very tip of 73 00:05:30,686 --> 00:05:32,748 Istanbul next to the black sea, 74 00:05:32,749 --> 00:05:35,542 so the ships that are going by here, 75 00:05:35,543 --> 00:05:37,711 they're basically going to Russia. 76 00:05:37,712 --> 00:05:39,840 I meet an old friend, Esra, for my first meal 77 00:05:39,841 --> 00:05:41,966 back in country. 78 00:05:41,967 --> 00:05:44,969 I know you like your fish with the head and tail. 79 00:05:44,970 --> 00:05:47,806 I do. This is perfect. 80 00:05:49,683 --> 00:05:52,143 I ordered some ruku. 81 00:05:52,144 --> 00:05:54,187 That makes me so happy. 82 00:05:54,188 --> 00:05:57,273 Yes, which is our national drink. 83 00:05:57,274 --> 00:06:00,484 It is aniseed and... 84 00:06:00,485 --> 00:06:03,279 I am familiar with this, all too familiar. 85 00:06:03,280 --> 00:06:05,699 Cheers. Welcome back. 86 00:06:08,827 --> 00:06:12,830 So since I last saw you, which was in 2009. 87 00:06:12,831 --> 00:06:14,957 2009. Wow. Long time ago. 88 00:06:14,958 --> 00:06:17,376 - So Istanbul looks a little different than - last time I was here. 89 00:06:17,379 --> 00:06:20,046 It looks a little more like every other city. 90 00:06:20,047 --> 00:06:22,422 Yeah. 91 00:06:22,423 --> 00:06:26,344 Well, construction. 92 00:06:26,345 --> 00:06:28,512 There seems to be a lot of that going on. 93 00:06:28,513 --> 00:06:29,805 Yes. 94 00:06:29,806 --> 00:06:30,806 Your president likes to build stuff. 95 00:06:30,807 --> 00:06:31,932 Pour concrete. 96 00:06:31,933 --> 00:06:34,643 He keeps the economy going. 97 00:06:34,644 --> 00:06:38,605 Turkey's so much politicized since the last time you came, 98 00:06:38,606 --> 00:06:44,070 like after 2011, the daily life issues 99 00:06:44,071 --> 00:06:48,241 like, um, how many children you should have, 100 00:06:48,242 --> 00:06:51,952 advising women not have laugh out loud in public, 101 00:06:51,953 --> 00:06:57,583 things like this were actually suggested by the government. 102 00:06:57,584 --> 00:06:59,960 Right. Do you think this is coming from 103 00:06:59,961 --> 00:07:02,462 a genuine ideological religious place 104 00:07:02,463 --> 00:07:04,715 or is this a political calculation? 105 00:07:04,716 --> 00:07:07,927 I think it's a genuine. 106 00:07:07,928 --> 00:07:10,097 You're telling me that current leadership is, 107 00:07:10,098 --> 00:07:12,265 in his heart, 108 00:07:12,266 --> 00:07:17,228 is genuinely opposed to alcohol, 109 00:07:17,229 --> 00:07:19,438 women laughing in public? 110 00:07:19,439 --> 00:07:22,816 Um... 111 00:07:22,817 --> 00:07:25,152 maybe I don't feel comfortable answering that question. 112 00:07:25,153 --> 00:07:27,614 Okay. 113 00:07:31,743 --> 00:07:34,517 Turkey's most famous politician, Recep Tayyip 114 00:07:34,518 --> 00:07:37,290 Erdogan. 115 00:07:37,291 --> 00:07:39,833 He is the power 116 00:07:39,834 --> 00:07:42,066 and has been the power in one form or another 117 00:07:42,067 --> 00:07:44,297 for more than a decade. 118 00:07:44,298 --> 00:07:48,218 He is the face of Turkey's ruling justice and development - party, 119 00:07:48,221 --> 00:07:51,262 The AKP. 120 00:07:51,263 --> 00:07:53,453 Erdogan has in recent years made Islamism politics 121 00:07:53,454 --> 00:07:55,641 mainstream 122 00:07:55,642 --> 00:07:58,020 and while remaining very, very popular in this extremely 123 00:07:58,021 --> 00:08:00,396 polarized nation, 124 00:08:00,397 --> 00:08:03,816 cracked down hard on media, political opposition, 125 00:08:03,817 --> 00:08:09,572 free speech, and, of course, demonstrations. 126 00:08:14,244 --> 00:08:18,956 In 2013, the almost revolution in Turkey happened. 127 00:08:18,957 --> 00:08:21,210 A protest to contest the proposed demolition of 128 00:08:21,211 --> 00:08:23,461 Istanbul's Gezzi Park 129 00:08:23,462 --> 00:08:26,756 resulted in a brutal crackdown by the police. 130 00:08:28,758 --> 00:08:33,512 In response, ordinary Turks unconnected by any ideology 131 00:08:33,513 --> 00:08:35,139 poured into the streets. 132 00:08:35,140 --> 00:08:37,599 With the whole world watching on social media, 133 00:08:37,600 --> 00:08:42,146 they, too, were met with force. 134 00:08:42,147 --> 00:08:45,524 In the end, Erdogan remained firmly in control 135 00:08:45,525 --> 00:08:48,841 and there were repercussions for many who had supported 136 00:08:48,842 --> 00:08:52,156 the protest. 137 00:08:52,157 --> 00:08:55,284 From that point on, media, social media, 138 00:08:55,285 --> 00:08:57,953 even open discussion of issues or events, 139 00:08:57,954 --> 00:09:02,959 became treated as hostile acts by foreign enemies. 140 00:09:10,800 --> 00:09:13,177 ♪ 141 00:09:13,178 --> 00:09:16,223 - Autocrats, in general, are not famous for their - sense of humor, 142 00:09:16,226 --> 00:09:18,682 So it's no surprise that comedians in Turkey, 143 00:09:18,683 --> 00:09:21,310 like Denise and her fiancé Han, 144 00:09:21,311 --> 00:09:23,146 walk a perilous line. 145 00:09:25,940 --> 00:09:28,734 Are these good times to be a comedian in Turkey? 146 00:09:28,735 --> 00:09:31,487 It's definitely one of the best times 147 00:09:31,488 --> 00:09:33,761 because our former prime minister needs my 148 00:09:33,762 --> 00:09:36,033 support for a living. We don't use the names. 149 00:09:36,034 --> 00:09:40,579 We just call him The Greatness. 150 00:09:40,580 --> 00:09:42,415 Or, you know... 151 00:09:42,416 --> 00:09:44,376 ♪ 152 00:09:47,462 --> 00:09:49,588 I guess they're running the finals. 153 00:09:49,589 --> 00:09:51,048 The finals. Yes. 154 00:09:51,049 --> 00:09:53,300 But all weight classes. 155 00:09:53,301 --> 00:09:56,470 But it's basically Greco-Roman wrestling. 156 00:09:56,471 --> 00:09:59,056 Just greased up. 157 00:09:59,057 --> 00:10:01,893 - As I understand it, you can't choke with - two hands, only one. 158 00:10:01,896 --> 00:10:03,185 Yes. 159 00:10:03,186 --> 00:10:04,853 But you can just slip your hand... 160 00:10:04,854 --> 00:10:09,066 Right down into some greasy ass crack. 161 00:10:09,067 --> 00:10:10,317 And grab whatever's... 162 00:10:10,318 --> 00:10:12,152 That's OK. 163 00:10:12,153 --> 00:10:14,447 ♪ Tell me something ♪ 164 00:10:14,448 --> 00:10:21,120 ♪ I want to know what are the rules of the game ♪ 165 00:10:21,121 --> 00:10:23,706 ♪ 166 00:10:41,933 --> 00:10:44,017 Turkish oil wrestling. 167 00:10:44,018 --> 00:10:47,104 A big freaking salad 168 00:10:47,105 --> 00:10:49,856 covered with oiled men in leather pants, 169 00:10:49,857 --> 00:10:53,444 giving each other spirited and prolonged reach-arounds. 170 00:10:53,445 --> 00:10:55,780 Oh, geez. 171 00:10:58,866 --> 00:11:01,076 Can we get rights to the Barry White greatest hits record or 172 00:11:01,077 --> 00:11:06,666 Diana Ross "Love Hangover," or is that too obvious? 173 00:11:12,172 --> 00:11:14,714 I like to be respectful of ancient tradition, 174 00:11:14,715 --> 00:11:17,259 but the jokes write themselves. 175 00:11:17,260 --> 00:11:20,887 What, there's, like, ropes inside or handles? 176 00:11:20,888 --> 00:11:22,515 Where do I get a pair of those pants? 177 00:11:22,516 --> 00:11:25,142 Those are some super freaky pants. 178 00:11:25,143 --> 00:11:28,395 Did you see the golden belts? It's good, too. 179 00:11:28,396 --> 00:11:31,898 It's got to be because the pants are awesome. 180 00:11:31,899 --> 00:11:34,026 Imagine what the belt looks like. 181 00:11:34,027 --> 00:11:36,946 ♪ 182 00:11:44,162 --> 00:11:46,164 Does he stop yelling at some point? 183 00:11:49,626 --> 00:11:51,627 The announcer's called "Jasgar." 184 00:11:51,628 --> 00:11:53,337 Yeah. 185 00:11:53,338 --> 00:11:56,924 And in slang, it means person who talks too much. 186 00:11:58,176 --> 00:11:59,886 It's too loud. 187 00:12:01,846 --> 00:12:04,558 It's time for political end. 188 00:12:09,521 --> 00:12:12,772 Lots changed since your last visit. 189 00:12:12,773 --> 00:12:14,941 Obviously the mood has changed a lot, 190 00:12:14,942 --> 00:12:16,611 which is weird because everything 191 00:12:16,612 --> 00:12:18,278 seemed to be going so well. 192 00:12:18,279 --> 00:12:20,780 Things seemed to be getting more tolerant. 193 00:12:20,781 --> 00:12:24,034 Tolerance level is so low these days. 194 00:12:24,035 --> 00:12:25,452 Right. 195 00:12:25,453 --> 00:12:29,915 People taking sides don't like the other one. 196 00:12:29,916 --> 00:12:35,421 These people don't like our kind. 197 00:12:35,422 --> 00:12:37,215 So what happens if someone 198 00:12:37,216 --> 00:12:39,007 doesn't like your joke? 199 00:12:39,008 --> 00:12:41,635 Somebody in a powerful position does not like your comedy. 200 00:12:41,636 --> 00:12:43,887 What happens? 201 00:12:43,888 --> 00:12:45,619 Depending on the degree how 202 00:12:45,620 --> 00:12:47,349 much he doesn't like you, 203 00:12:47,350 --> 00:12:48,726 how much he's offended. 204 00:12:48,727 --> 00:12:50,644 Let's say he's really offended. 205 00:12:50,645 --> 00:12:53,021 You go to jail. 206 00:12:53,022 --> 00:12:56,900 Or being, you know, terrorist or... 207 00:12:56,901 --> 00:12:59,361 Aiding and abetting the enemies of the state. 208 00:12:59,362 --> 00:13:00,904 Yes. Enemy of the state. 209 00:13:00,905 --> 00:13:04,157 Being enemy of the state is most common thing 210 00:13:04,158 --> 00:13:05,784 you can do right now in Turkey. 211 00:13:20,133 --> 00:13:22,593 They're asking for more oil. 212 00:13:22,594 --> 00:13:25,804 More oil, immediately. 213 00:13:38,735 --> 00:13:41,362 ♪ 214 00:13:45,659 --> 00:13:48,619 Building boom or building bubble. 215 00:13:48,620 --> 00:13:51,163 Architect and city planner Luda Garman 216 00:13:51,164 --> 00:13:53,312 has been capturing Istanbul's construction 217 00:13:53,313 --> 00:13:55,459 boom with his camera. 218 00:13:55,460 --> 00:13:58,128 He employs a unique method of compressing panoramas 219 00:13:58,129 --> 00:14:01,298 to create a striking reimagining of city scapes, 220 00:14:01,299 --> 00:14:03,718 reflecting, perhaps, more of the reality than 221 00:14:03,719 --> 00:14:06,137 a straight photo could. 222 00:14:09,766 --> 00:14:12,227 I've been following what's happening in Istanbul because 223 00:14:12,228 --> 00:14:14,687 it's my hometown, 224 00:14:14,688 --> 00:14:17,314 and what's happening is that the new government 225 00:14:17,315 --> 00:14:19,484 is basing the supposedly booming economy totally 226 00:14:19,485 --> 00:14:21,652 on construction. 227 00:14:21,653 --> 00:14:28,534 So what they did is they started to build high-rise housing, 228 00:14:28,535 --> 00:14:31,578 shopping malls, roads, and all that, 229 00:14:31,579 --> 00:14:34,019 but not necessarily buildings that are related 230 00:14:34,020 --> 00:14:36,458 to the making of culture. 231 00:14:36,459 --> 00:14:39,919 All this construction is related to consumption. 232 00:14:39,920 --> 00:14:42,255 Well, are these spaces needed? 233 00:14:42,256 --> 00:14:43,674 At whatever income level, 234 00:14:43,675 --> 00:14:46,176 will somebody be living in these buildings? 235 00:14:46,177 --> 00:14:49,137 That's a very good question. I'm asking the same question. 236 00:14:49,138 --> 00:14:50,723 Yeah. 237 00:14:50,724 --> 00:14:51,849 First things first. 238 00:14:51,850 --> 00:14:52,974 Yeah. 239 00:14:52,975 --> 00:14:55,686 We'll save the world later. 240 00:14:55,687 --> 00:15:01,191 This is the Turkish version of pizza, let's say. 241 00:15:01,192 --> 00:15:05,071 ♪ 242 00:15:06,989 --> 00:15:09,430 Pita has some similarities. 243 00:15:09,431 --> 00:15:11,869 I mean, there's cheese in it. 244 00:15:11,870 --> 00:15:13,412 Dough. 245 00:15:13,413 --> 00:15:15,163 But it's more like a calzone maybe. 246 00:15:15,164 --> 00:15:17,040 I don't know. 247 00:15:17,041 --> 00:15:18,375 It's an efficient delivery vehicle for, in this this case, 248 00:15:18,376 --> 00:15:21,169 ground meat, cheese, and onions. 249 00:15:21,170 --> 00:15:24,424 A not so little torpedo straight from, I was going to - say "flavor town," 250 00:15:24,427 --> 00:15:27,467 But no, that would be wrong. 251 00:15:27,468 --> 00:15:29,302 I want to see what you do with this. 252 00:15:29,303 --> 00:15:32,013 I want to see how you eat this. 253 00:15:32,014 --> 00:15:33,932 What do you do with that... you dip in the egg? 254 00:15:33,933 --> 00:15:34,974 Pour it in? 255 00:15:34,975 --> 00:15:36,769 Exactly. 256 00:15:36,770 --> 00:15:37,270 ♪ 257 00:15:42,024 --> 00:15:43,442 Mm. 258 00:15:43,443 --> 00:15:45,110 This is... cholesterol bomb, we call it. 259 00:15:45,111 --> 00:15:48,489 ♪ 260 00:15:58,416 --> 00:16:03,086 There's a remarkable lack of sentimentality 261 00:16:03,087 --> 00:16:06,590 about really one of the most uniquely glorious 262 00:16:06,591 --> 00:16:10,761 looking spaces anywhere. 263 00:16:10,762 --> 00:16:12,304 Why don't they care? 264 00:16:12,305 --> 00:16:14,139 I agree. There's a lack of sentimentality, 265 00:16:14,140 --> 00:16:16,393 and there's also a lack of vision, I believe, 266 00:16:16,394 --> 00:16:18,644 hometown vision. 267 00:16:18,645 --> 00:16:21,730 We have very short-term visions. 268 00:16:21,731 --> 00:16:24,065 Mostly based on money making. 269 00:16:24,066 --> 00:16:26,340 When people look at the work 270 00:16:26,341 --> 00:16:28,612 you do set in Istanbul, 271 00:16:28,613 --> 00:16:30,697 what do you want them to see? 272 00:16:30,698 --> 00:16:35,327 First of all, I really value the sustainability of our 273 00:16:35,328 --> 00:16:37,788 political culture. 274 00:16:37,789 --> 00:16:42,459 I want my work to show, hey, look, this is what we had. 275 00:16:42,460 --> 00:16:45,378 I think we are already losing it, 276 00:16:45,379 --> 00:16:48,214 so why don't we stop here and maybe consider doing 277 00:16:48,215 --> 00:16:50,383 something else? 278 00:16:50,384 --> 00:16:52,679 ♪ 279 00:17:15,952 --> 00:17:19,454 Nachambe Pozer, long home to tradesmen, 280 00:17:19,455 --> 00:17:21,623 Greeks, Jews, and Armenians. 281 00:17:21,624 --> 00:17:25,627 Groups whose populations are these days a tiny fraction 282 00:17:25,628 --> 00:17:27,462 of what they once were. 283 00:17:27,463 --> 00:17:29,882 This neighborhood like many in Istanbul 284 00:17:29,883 --> 00:17:33,678 is slated for redevelopment in the name of urban renewal. 285 00:17:36,639 --> 00:17:40,266 Wow, look at that. 286 00:17:40,267 --> 00:17:42,101 It's a lot of food. 287 00:17:42,102 --> 00:17:44,021 Cesar and his family have been running a restaurant here 288 00:17:44,022 --> 00:17:45,981 for nearly 20 years. 289 00:17:45,982 --> 00:17:48,693 ♪ 290 00:17:51,738 --> 00:17:55,073 The way that we make the food, it's our own language. 291 00:17:55,074 --> 00:17:56,909 That's the whole idea about it. 292 00:17:56,910 --> 00:17:59,118 So your family's Armenian. 293 00:17:59,119 --> 00:18:00,787 Yes. 294 00:18:00,788 --> 00:18:02,539 Is the food Armenian? 295 00:18:02,540 --> 00:18:06,626 This is my mom's food. Whatever we eat at home. 296 00:18:06,627 --> 00:18:09,963 Authentic tradesmen's restaurants are getting harder 297 00:18:09,964 --> 00:18:11,924 and harder to find. 298 00:18:11,925 --> 00:18:13,884 Most are family-owned businesses. 299 00:18:13,885 --> 00:18:17,178 The kind of place where you can get a classic home-style meal 300 00:18:17,179 --> 00:18:20,432 of traditional dishes. 301 00:18:20,433 --> 00:18:22,308 You're clearly romantic. 302 00:18:22,309 --> 00:18:26,897 Do you think there is a place in modern Istanbul 303 00:18:26,898 --> 00:18:32,402 for romantics or will they be crushed by modernity? 304 00:18:32,403 --> 00:18:38,366 Almost all the protestors, they were romantics. 305 00:18:38,367 --> 00:18:41,787 They killed those people. They used real guns, 306 00:18:41,788 --> 00:18:44,039 but they will still continue to protest. 307 00:18:44,040 --> 00:18:45,917 Nothing else. 308 00:18:49,503 --> 00:18:53,256 So what's the future of Armenians in Turkey? 309 00:18:53,257 --> 00:18:57,385 Will there be more Armenians in Istanbul in 20 years or fewer? 310 00:18:57,386 --> 00:18:58,887 Of course it will be less. 311 00:18:58,888 --> 00:19:01,057 Less? Yes. 312 00:19:04,435 --> 00:19:08,480 This turn towards a more conservative, more Islamist, 313 00:19:08,481 --> 00:19:10,398 is this a political calculation 314 00:19:10,399 --> 00:19:13,236 or do you think this is generally, genuinely, 315 00:19:13,237 --> 00:19:16,071 how people feel now? 316 00:19:16,072 --> 00:19:18,115 It's the way that people feel now. 317 00:19:18,116 --> 00:19:20,577 Because of the way that our dear president, 318 00:19:20,578 --> 00:19:23,036 the way that he talks, 319 00:19:23,037 --> 00:19:27,082 it's not only political issue, it's reality. 320 00:19:27,083 --> 00:19:30,794 I don't know what he has in mind, our president, 321 00:19:30,795 --> 00:19:38,795 but somehow he let people fight with hate. 322 00:19:39,762 --> 00:19:43,056 I believe that hate will be, you know, 323 00:19:43,057 --> 00:19:45,809 it will make our end soon. 324 00:19:45,810 --> 00:19:47,602 That's what I'm afraid of. 325 00:19:47,603 --> 00:19:51,230 That's why I'm telling you that young generation, Armenians, 326 00:19:51,231 --> 00:19:52,732 they will definitely leave this country. 327 00:19:52,733 --> 00:19:56,069 Wow! I hope you're wrong. I like to be... 328 00:19:56,070 --> 00:19:58,279 I mean, I'm not really an optimistic person, 329 00:19:58,280 --> 00:19:59,698 but I hope you're wrong about Istanbul, 330 00:19:59,699 --> 00:20:01,282 because it's an amazing place. 331 00:20:01,283 --> 00:20:04,578 I hope you will be the one who's right. 332 00:20:05,997 --> 00:20:07,164 Hold on. 333 00:20:07,165 --> 00:20:09,499 Give me help and not crash my car. 334 00:20:09,500 --> 00:20:12,294 Not today, maybe tomorrow. 335 00:20:13,462 --> 00:20:14,838 I have to pass this bus. 336 00:20:14,839 --> 00:20:18,217 If I don't pass this bus... Yo! 337 00:20:20,219 --> 00:20:21,678 It is a long-held belief 338 00:20:21,679 --> 00:20:23,304 that if you want to know the real deal, 339 00:20:23,305 --> 00:20:25,182 what's really good about a town... 340 00:20:25,183 --> 00:20:26,892 What a life. 341 00:20:26,893 --> 00:20:28,810 ...if you want to know where to find the good stuff, 342 00:20:28,811 --> 00:20:30,604 you ask a cab driver. 343 00:20:34,400 --> 00:20:36,401 I don't know wrong way, right way. 344 00:20:36,402 --> 00:20:38,737 Life is life, what is what. 345 00:20:38,738 --> 00:20:40,822 Take it easy. 346 00:20:40,823 --> 00:20:44,325 I don't know if that's true. Not in my town, anyway. 347 00:20:44,326 --> 00:20:47,704 But in Istanbul, I know a cab driver. 348 00:20:47,705 --> 00:20:51,374 My old friend, Esan. 349 00:20:51,375 --> 00:20:53,793 Hello, my friend. Good to see you. 350 00:20:53,794 --> 00:20:56,171 After all those years. To meet again. 351 00:20:56,172 --> 00:20:58,173 What a coincidence. 352 00:20:58,174 --> 00:20:59,091 I love that. 353 00:20:59,092 --> 00:21:01,677 ♪ 354 00:21:03,721 --> 00:21:05,972 So how are things in Istanbul? It looks very different. 355 00:21:05,973 --> 00:21:07,515 They're building stuff everywhere. 356 00:21:07,516 --> 00:21:09,142 I don't know what they're talking about. 357 00:21:09,143 --> 00:21:12,104 Hello, top hotel, hello, top shopping center open, 358 00:21:12,105 --> 00:21:14,689 more restaurant open, more disco open. 359 00:21:14,690 --> 00:21:16,858 More discos? More discos. 360 00:21:16,859 --> 00:21:19,277 I thought this is a conservative government. 361 00:21:19,278 --> 00:21:21,446 Government conservative, but people, 362 00:21:21,447 --> 00:21:23,322 and they have to shake, they have to drink. 363 00:21:23,323 --> 00:21:24,658 Life too short. 364 00:21:37,213 --> 00:21:40,174 Most people ask me, did you make an accident? 365 00:21:41,759 --> 00:21:45,178 And I say, yes, I killed two people, three people hospital 366 00:21:45,179 --> 00:21:47,295 and then I pass cemetery. I say this is Esan's section. 367 00:21:48,515 --> 00:21:49,641 They are scared. 368 00:21:49,642 --> 00:21:50,851 Really? 369 00:21:52,394 --> 00:21:55,521 How can you ask a taxi driver, did you make an accident? 370 00:21:55,522 --> 00:21:57,191 Right. 371 00:21:59,526 --> 00:22:02,195 Again, we cross the Galata bridge. 372 00:22:02,196 --> 00:22:04,282 I love here. 373 00:22:05,158 --> 00:22:06,574 Look at this city. 374 00:22:06,575 --> 00:22:09,410 Santa Sophia there, Topkapi Palace there, 375 00:22:09,411 --> 00:22:11,663 new mosque, Sulaymaniyah, 376 00:22:11,664 --> 00:22:12,914 Golden Horn. 377 00:22:12,915 --> 00:22:14,666 I love this city. 378 00:22:14,667 --> 00:22:17,169 Yahoo! 379 00:22:17,170 --> 00:22:20,505 Come on, everybody! 380 00:22:20,506 --> 00:22:23,842 Esan has gone crazy! 381 00:22:23,843 --> 00:22:25,802 Taxi driver is nice job. 382 00:22:25,803 --> 00:22:29,472 I love this job because you meet every time new people. 383 00:22:29,473 --> 00:22:30,932 Right. 384 00:22:30,933 --> 00:22:33,310 And on the way, you never get upset. 385 00:22:33,311 --> 00:22:34,394 Right. 386 00:22:45,281 --> 00:22:48,365 I wish I dance, but I dance belly dance. 387 00:22:48,366 --> 00:22:50,619 ♪ 388 00:23:17,563 --> 00:23:20,357 Wow. 389 00:23:20,358 --> 00:23:23,193 Come on. Ah! 390 00:23:23,194 --> 00:23:27,739 Everybody say this not normal. 391 00:23:27,740 --> 00:23:29,366 I study about Ottoman, 392 00:23:29,367 --> 00:23:31,951 how to read, learn Ottoman languages. 393 00:23:31,952 --> 00:23:35,080 When you ask why Esan to learn this? 394 00:23:35,081 --> 00:23:38,250 Because I want to read history, original. 395 00:23:38,251 --> 00:23:40,877 Probably not while driving. 396 00:23:40,878 --> 00:23:44,130 Not driving. But traffic already stopped. 397 00:23:44,131 --> 00:23:47,175 I talk too much, boring, and I go. 398 00:23:47,176 --> 00:23:51,389 Take another taxi, 'cause I talk too much. 399 00:23:58,396 --> 00:24:00,188 This is my home area. 400 00:24:00,189 --> 00:24:01,065 Oh, yeah, you live 401 00:24:01,066 --> 00:24:01,940 in this neighborhood? 402 00:24:01,941 --> 00:24:05,110 Yeah. We call this area Lokanta. 403 00:24:05,111 --> 00:24:08,445 So this is a local favorite of yours, this restaurant? 404 00:24:08,446 --> 00:24:10,573 This restaurant I know since 30 years. 405 00:24:10,574 --> 00:24:12,743 ♪ 406 00:24:21,627 --> 00:24:23,795 So it's cow foot, tripes. 407 00:24:23,796 --> 00:24:27,300 Right. Very nice. 408 00:24:31,553 --> 00:24:33,470 That looks good. 409 00:24:33,471 --> 00:24:36,724 Man, this is just delicious. 410 00:24:36,725 --> 00:24:38,435 Are the young people 411 00:24:38,436 --> 00:24:40,728 more conservative or less conservative? 412 00:24:40,729 --> 00:24:43,564 My daughter married, religious person, 413 00:24:43,565 --> 00:24:45,400 and she has a scarf. 414 00:24:45,401 --> 00:24:48,778 Another daughter, young, 18 years old, 415 00:24:48,779 --> 00:24:50,363 short and moderate. 416 00:24:50,364 --> 00:24:51,823 They walk together. 417 00:24:51,824 --> 00:24:53,825 One is scarf, one is not. 418 00:24:53,826 --> 00:24:57,203 Right. 419 00:24:57,204 --> 00:24:59,372 Maybe one day you invite me to America, 420 00:24:59,373 --> 00:25:00,832 and I will be making... Done. 421 00:25:00,833 --> 00:25:02,708 Belly dance on American main road. 422 00:25:02,709 --> 00:25:04,336 Shaking my body. 423 00:25:04,337 --> 00:25:06,922 I think... probably get arrested for that. 424 00:25:11,177 --> 00:25:14,305 ♪ 425 00:25:31,738 --> 00:25:35,242 The voice of Istanbul. 426 00:25:39,163 --> 00:25:42,290 I've had at least 30 names. 427 00:25:42,291 --> 00:25:47,586 From New Rome to Islambul. 428 00:25:47,587 --> 00:25:50,923 Now they say I'm between the east and the west, 429 00:25:50,924 --> 00:25:53,386 an identity crisis. 430 00:25:54,094 --> 00:25:57,263 Mine or theirs? 431 00:25:57,264 --> 00:25:58,723 Enough of this nonsense. 432 00:25:58,724 --> 00:26:02,560 Take the labels off and just look at me. 433 00:26:05,064 --> 00:26:08,358 You won't need a guidebook. 434 00:26:08,359 --> 00:26:12,487 Like all cities, I have my own sense of time. 435 00:26:12,488 --> 00:26:15,990 I'm a labyrinth of layers... 436 00:26:15,991 --> 00:26:19,412 that only makes sense without a compass. 437 00:26:20,037 --> 00:26:22,331 ♪ 438 00:26:25,625 --> 00:26:27,210 If you're hesitant, 439 00:26:27,211 --> 00:26:29,379 not sure which way to go as you walk about, 440 00:26:29,380 --> 00:26:32,631 follow one of my cats. 441 00:26:32,632 --> 00:26:35,468 They will lead you to places, introduce you to people, 442 00:26:35,469 --> 00:26:41,307 point out secrets they keep even from me. 443 00:26:41,308 --> 00:26:43,435 They, more than anyone, 444 00:26:43,436 --> 00:26:46,896 are the longest continuing residents of the city. 445 00:26:46,897 --> 00:26:49,191 ♪ 446 00:26:54,071 --> 00:26:58,866 A challenge to those who see the future in my past, 447 00:26:58,867 --> 00:27:03,747 I'm an obstacle for those who see only the future. 448 00:27:08,461 --> 00:27:12,506 I see change with the patience of centuries. 449 00:27:16,385 --> 00:27:21,347 Look at my silhouette from the bridge on the Golden Horn. 450 00:27:21,348 --> 00:27:27,019 Time has not passed me by, it has protected me. 451 00:27:27,020 --> 00:27:30,274 I ask of you the same. 452 00:27:41,285 --> 00:27:43,828 An hour ferry ride and a world away 453 00:27:43,829 --> 00:27:48,000 are the Prince's Islands in the Sea of Marmara. 454 00:27:51,295 --> 00:27:54,922 Gunduz Vassaf and his friend Serra Yilmaz 455 00:27:54,923 --> 00:27:58,176 have invited me for lunch. 456 00:27:58,177 --> 00:28:00,512 Actor, translator. 457 00:28:00,513 --> 00:28:02,138 Yeah. 458 00:28:02,139 --> 00:28:04,098 Philosopher. Poet. 459 00:28:04,099 --> 00:28:06,934 Are these good times to be a poet in Turkey? 460 00:28:06,935 --> 00:28:14,275 It is, actually, because it's a way to bring down the noise 461 00:28:14,276 --> 00:28:16,986 in a way because so much words are exchanged 462 00:28:16,987 --> 00:28:19,989 especially in heated political discussions. 463 00:28:19,990 --> 00:28:22,847 I have become very used to and fond of this drink, 464 00:28:22,848 --> 00:28:25,702 by the way. 465 00:28:25,703 --> 00:28:29,874 Maybe too used to it and too fond of it. 466 00:28:29,875 --> 00:28:32,126 They used it call it lime's milk. 467 00:28:32,127 --> 00:28:37,382 A poet was famous for saying I wish I could be a fish in the 468 00:28:37,383 --> 00:28:39,885 bottle of ruku. 469 00:28:42,054 --> 00:28:46,683 Sera prepares a traditional spread of mezay. 470 00:28:46,684 --> 00:28:49,227 Turkish mezay are an extremely tasty, 471 00:28:49,228 --> 00:28:51,937 very diverse assortment of dishes originating 472 00:28:51,938 --> 00:28:55,608 at every corner of the former Ottoman Empire. 473 00:28:55,609 --> 00:28:58,777 The Ottomans like to eat and entertain 474 00:28:58,778 --> 00:29:01,280 and employed armies of cooks to dazzle them 475 00:29:01,281 --> 00:29:03,199 with ever-changing menus. 476 00:29:03,200 --> 00:29:05,869 Variety being key. 477 00:29:07,454 --> 00:29:10,498 Sircasian chicken. 478 00:29:10,499 --> 00:29:12,041 Fava beans. 479 00:29:12,042 --> 00:29:14,752 Rice with mussels. 480 00:29:14,753 --> 00:29:17,630 Eggplant. 481 00:29:17,631 --> 00:29:19,798 Stuffed grape leaf. 482 00:29:19,799 --> 00:29:21,342 Poached eggs with yogurt. 483 00:29:21,343 --> 00:29:24,762 All classic and all delicious. 484 00:29:24,763 --> 00:29:27,557 What shall I give you? 485 00:29:27,558 --> 00:29:28,933 A few of everything? 486 00:29:28,934 --> 00:29:31,269 Yes, please. 487 00:29:31,270 --> 00:29:33,773 I'll put some... maybe I could give you some 488 00:29:33,774 --> 00:29:36,274 chicken already. 489 00:29:36,275 --> 00:29:40,194 Make room for that, I think. Here we go. 490 00:29:40,195 --> 00:29:43,364 Wow, it's really pretty. 491 00:29:43,365 --> 00:29:45,408 Am I getting a distorted picture of Turkey 492 00:29:45,409 --> 00:29:47,243 by spending all of my time in Istanbul? 493 00:29:47,244 --> 00:29:50,538 It's very different than the rest of the country, yeah? 494 00:29:50,539 --> 00:29:52,665 How different? 495 00:29:52,666 --> 00:29:54,166 But I think in Istanbul, 496 00:29:54,167 --> 00:29:58,837 you have all the different parts of Turkey also. 497 00:29:58,838 --> 00:30:01,507 What does it mean to be Turkish? 498 00:30:01,508 --> 00:30:02,925 What do you think? 499 00:30:02,926 --> 00:30:06,763 Serra, are you Turkish? 500 00:30:06,764 --> 00:30:08,766 Yes, but it's not my fault. 501 00:30:16,148 --> 00:30:19,942 Man, this is so... let me say, this food is extraordinary. 502 00:30:19,943 --> 00:30:22,153 I mean really, really amazing. 503 00:30:22,154 --> 00:30:27,784 When I was here last, it was a very different mood. 504 00:30:27,785 --> 00:30:33,581 Now at least the tenner of the things said by the government 505 00:30:33,582 --> 00:30:36,208 are increasingly ugly. 506 00:30:36,209 --> 00:30:37,752 And intolerant. 507 00:30:37,753 --> 00:30:42,298 You've got this social activism that's very unusual. 508 00:30:42,299 --> 00:30:45,009 Certainly the government is appealing 509 00:30:45,010 --> 00:30:50,055 to traditional Islamic values whether it's for show or not, 510 00:30:50,056 --> 00:30:53,559 there seems to be some reevaluation of 511 00:30:53,560 --> 00:30:57,438 how much of a party town do we want to be? 512 00:30:57,439 --> 00:31:02,901 These days, the powers that be don't like it. 513 00:31:02,902 --> 00:31:04,696 Do they genuinely not like it, 514 00:31:04,697 --> 00:31:06,739 or are they appealing to a political base? 515 00:31:06,740 --> 00:31:09,283 Oh, no, it's populism. It's a political base. 516 00:31:09,284 --> 00:31:11,869 And lots of people, of course, play along 517 00:31:11,870 --> 00:31:13,954 saying that they don't want to drink, et cetera, 518 00:31:13,955 --> 00:31:15,707 because that's the way you get your contracts, 519 00:31:15,708 --> 00:31:17,208 that's the way you get things done. 520 00:31:17,209 --> 00:31:20,961 Nationalism seems to be working internally. 521 00:31:20,962 --> 00:31:22,087 Yes. 522 00:31:22,088 --> 00:31:23,840 Nationalism and xenophobia, 523 00:31:23,841 --> 00:31:25,675 it's a vote getter almost anywhere. 524 00:31:25,676 --> 00:31:28,553 It's a vote getter but it's a vote loser as well 525 00:31:28,554 --> 00:31:31,848 in the sense that there's so much backlash. 526 00:31:31,849 --> 00:31:36,435 What do you think's going to happen? 527 00:31:36,436 --> 00:31:37,812 It'll get back to normal. 528 00:31:37,813 --> 00:31:39,814 You think it will... Oh, yeah. 529 00:31:39,815 --> 00:31:42,568 ♪ 530 00:31:43,109 --> 00:31:45,779 ♪ 531 00:32:20,397 --> 00:32:22,648 Walking down Istanbul streets, 532 00:32:22,649 --> 00:32:26,110 it's easy to forget or not take seriously 533 00:32:26,111 --> 00:32:28,446 the slow but certain change in attitude 534 00:32:28,447 --> 00:32:31,282 toward this kind of freedom. 535 00:32:31,283 --> 00:32:34,453 ♪ 536 00:32:36,037 --> 00:32:40,667 The right, for lack of a better term, to party. 537 00:32:47,048 --> 00:32:49,718 ♪ 538 00:32:51,428 --> 00:32:53,220 The AKP is in power 539 00:32:53,221 --> 00:32:55,848 because a majority of voters put them there. 540 00:32:55,849 --> 00:32:58,183 Their attitudes, for better or worse, 541 00:32:58,184 --> 00:33:02,521 reflect the attitudes of a great number of Turks. 542 00:33:02,522 --> 00:33:03,856 All right, man. 543 00:33:03,857 --> 00:33:06,358 This is Nuri, a Turkish businessman. 544 00:33:06,359 --> 00:33:08,986 I'm glad we met you because you are an AKP supporter. 545 00:33:08,987 --> 00:33:10,237 You voted for AKP. 546 00:33:10,238 --> 00:33:11,781 Yeah, I did. Right. 547 00:33:11,782 --> 00:33:13,866 Why? 548 00:33:13,867 --> 00:33:17,995 Before, economy was so bad, 549 00:33:17,996 --> 00:33:20,706 no foreign investment. 550 00:33:20,707 --> 00:33:24,293 Interest rates were so high. 551 00:33:24,294 --> 00:33:28,673 Inflation was about 100 percent per year. 552 00:33:28,674 --> 00:33:34,428 So it's very hard to make business in such circumstances. 553 00:33:34,429 --> 00:33:39,475 In 2002, I had 78 employees. 554 00:33:39,476 --> 00:33:42,019 Now it's 250. 555 00:33:42,020 --> 00:33:44,856 Since I got here, I've been talking to a lot of people 556 00:33:44,857 --> 00:33:49,986 who are very upset about the environment, 557 00:33:49,987 --> 00:33:52,406 they're upset about the destruction of old, 558 00:33:52,407 --> 00:33:54,824 beautiful buildings. 559 00:33:54,825 --> 00:33:56,701 To a great extent, 560 00:33:56,702 --> 00:33:59,495 they do not like what much of the world would call progress. 561 00:33:59,496 --> 00:34:03,041 So when you saw people running out in the streets and - demonstrating, 562 00:34:03,044 --> 00:34:05,376 What was your feeling? 563 00:34:05,377 --> 00:34:10,047 They said they went there for the tress, the environment, 564 00:34:10,048 --> 00:34:16,679 but at the end, they worked together to raise people. 565 00:34:16,680 --> 00:34:19,348 We have to accept Istanbul like this. 566 00:34:19,349 --> 00:34:21,433 We've got nothing to do. I cannot change it. 567 00:34:21,434 --> 00:34:22,768 No one can change it. 568 00:34:22,769 --> 00:34:24,478 No going back. 569 00:34:24,479 --> 00:34:27,439 Fifty years ago, they could do some things, but not now. 570 00:34:27,440 --> 00:34:30,275 You're not sentimental about the old neighborhoods, 571 00:34:30,276 --> 00:34:31,569 the old... 572 00:34:31,570 --> 00:34:34,864 No. I got used to it. 573 00:34:34,865 --> 00:34:38,451 ♪ 574 00:34:41,371 --> 00:34:42,705 This is a party town. 575 00:34:42,706 --> 00:34:45,207 This is a nightclub town. 576 00:34:45,208 --> 00:34:50,087 The impression is that there's some ambivalence there. 577 00:34:50,088 --> 00:34:51,672 Ten years from now, 578 00:34:51,673 --> 00:34:54,132 will we be able to come to this bar or a bar like it 579 00:34:54,133 --> 00:34:57,845 and drink lots of gin drinks and misbehave? 580 00:34:57,846 --> 00:34:59,013 No problem? 581 00:34:59,014 --> 00:35:01,098 No problem I think. 582 00:35:01,099 --> 00:35:03,100 This is a party town. 583 00:35:03,101 --> 00:35:04,476 Right. 584 00:35:04,477 --> 00:35:06,353 We drink hard. 585 00:35:06,354 --> 00:35:07,438 So it's all about money. 586 00:35:07,439 --> 00:35:08,856 It's all about money. 587 00:35:08,857 --> 00:35:12,069 Everything is all about money in the world. 588 00:35:14,654 --> 00:35:18,741 Who will be Turkey's bestest pal internationally? 589 00:35:18,742 --> 00:35:20,325 Which way are they looking? 590 00:35:20,326 --> 00:35:21,368 To the east or the west? 591 00:35:21,369 --> 00:35:23,871 East. Russia. 592 00:35:23,872 --> 00:35:25,372 China. 593 00:35:25,373 --> 00:35:26,832 Vietnam. 594 00:35:26,833 --> 00:35:29,167 And the Arabic countries. 595 00:35:29,168 --> 00:35:36,884 At west, Europe is getting weaker and weaker day by day. 596 00:35:36,885 --> 00:35:39,929 In the next 50 years, it's going to be the era of the East, 597 00:35:39,930 --> 00:35:42,347 not the West. 598 00:35:42,348 --> 00:35:43,808 Uh-huh. 599 00:35:43,809 --> 00:35:46,351 So these notions of like freedom of the press 600 00:35:46,352 --> 00:35:48,228 these are not eastern concepts? 601 00:35:48,229 --> 00:35:51,315 No. They're not. 602 00:35:51,316 --> 00:35:52,817 I'm going to ask you a tough one. 603 00:35:52,818 --> 00:35:55,778 Is freedom of the press overrated? 604 00:35:55,779 --> 00:35:58,114 Yeah. 605 00:35:58,115 --> 00:36:00,825 Yeah. Yeah. 606 00:36:00,826 --> 00:36:02,743 It's overrated. 607 00:36:02,744 --> 00:36:06,914 You think tightening up on the press is a sacrifice 608 00:36:06,915 --> 00:36:09,959 that you're willing to make for a good economy? 609 00:36:09,960 --> 00:36:11,794 I don't want to put words in your mouth, 610 00:36:11,795 --> 00:36:15,047 but prosperity for the majority. 611 00:36:15,048 --> 00:36:18,467 It's the same all over the world. 612 00:36:18,468 --> 00:36:20,385 It's not typical for Turkey. 613 00:36:20,386 --> 00:36:21,512 Right. 614 00:36:21,513 --> 00:36:23,973 That's life. 615 00:36:23,974 --> 00:36:25,432 Oh, thank you. 616 00:36:25,433 --> 00:36:27,143 Thank you. 617 00:36:27,144 --> 00:36:29,687 This is a really bad idea. Okay. 618 00:36:29,688 --> 00:36:30,813 Cheers. Cheers. 619 00:36:30,814 --> 00:36:32,691 Nostrovia. Nostrovia. 620 00:36:45,370 --> 00:36:47,873 ♪ 621 00:37:17,402 --> 00:37:20,278 Hi! Of course, good to see you. 622 00:37:20,279 --> 00:37:21,780 Welcome to our park. 623 00:37:21,781 --> 00:37:23,949 Oh man. 624 00:37:23,950 --> 00:37:25,325 I'm glad I haven't eaten yet. 625 00:37:25,326 --> 00:37:27,036 That is pretty awesome-looking. 626 00:37:27,037 --> 00:37:30,497 So have you ever had Turkish breakfast before? 627 00:37:30,498 --> 00:37:32,290 With you. 628 00:37:32,291 --> 00:37:34,585 I love that you even do eggs in the park. 629 00:37:34,586 --> 00:37:35,836 Pretty impressive. 630 00:37:35,837 --> 00:37:39,631 Yeah, this place is called... 631 00:37:39,632 --> 00:37:44,137 It's one of the last remaining parks in the vicinity. 632 00:37:46,431 --> 00:37:49,934 Since 2013, people have been gathering here 633 00:37:49,935 --> 00:37:52,061 in what we call forums 634 00:37:52,062 --> 00:37:56,232 to talk about their ideas for different, 635 00:37:56,233 --> 00:37:59,068 how can I say... Debates. 636 00:37:59,069 --> 00:38:01,070 Chats. Uh-huh. 637 00:38:01,071 --> 00:38:03,781 Different people gathering here at night, after work. 638 00:38:03,782 --> 00:38:07,576 And then talking, trying to find solutions, right. 639 00:38:07,577 --> 00:38:09,578 We didn't have any other place to go. 640 00:38:09,579 --> 00:38:11,663 So we came here. 641 00:38:11,664 --> 00:38:15,417 Why is it so important? 642 00:38:15,418 --> 00:38:17,335 I think it's not just for us, 643 00:38:17,336 --> 00:38:20,799 for future residents of Istanbul. 644 00:38:23,969 --> 00:38:29,681 This turns into a space of politics, a space of hope, 645 00:38:29,682 --> 00:38:35,312 against a system which seems to be impossible to break. 646 00:38:35,313 --> 00:38:36,814 Is it impossible to break? 647 00:38:36,815 --> 00:38:38,023 No, not now. 648 00:38:38,024 --> 00:38:39,566 It was impossible a few weeks ago. 649 00:38:39,567 --> 00:38:41,443 A few weeks ago it was impossible. 650 00:38:41,444 --> 00:38:44,321 You're feeling optimistic? 651 00:38:44,322 --> 00:38:46,782 The hope is the revolution, you know. 652 00:38:46,783 --> 00:38:50,369 If you lose your hope, then there's nothing to do. 653 00:38:52,247 --> 00:38:54,414 I think the tide is turning. 654 00:38:54,415 --> 00:38:58,795 If you compare Arab Spring and this park... 655 00:39:00,755 --> 00:39:03,112 In the Arab Spring they are protesting against a 656 00:39:03,113 --> 00:39:05,467 dictatorship, 657 00:39:05,468 --> 00:39:09,347 but in Turkey, I think there is democracy. 658 00:39:10,182 --> 00:39:12,599 Esra and her friends, 659 00:39:12,600 --> 00:39:15,687 - previously unlikely to have known, much less come - to like one another 660 00:39:15,690 --> 00:39:18,480 Were brought together by circumstances. 661 00:39:18,481 --> 00:39:20,774 Have you been gassed? 662 00:39:20,775 --> 00:39:22,943 Not that much. 663 00:39:22,944 --> 00:39:25,570 By gassed, you're talking about pollution? 664 00:39:25,571 --> 00:39:26,571 Tear gas. 665 00:39:26,572 --> 00:39:28,115 Oh, tear gas. 666 00:39:28,116 --> 00:39:30,492 When you are getting gassed together, 667 00:39:30,493 --> 00:39:36,165 you really connect through life or death situations. 668 00:39:36,166 --> 00:39:39,251 You hold each other and run away together. 669 00:39:39,252 --> 00:39:42,504 It was a very actually emotional thing for me. 670 00:39:42,505 --> 00:39:48,426 Because all my life, I was taught to keep away 671 00:39:48,427 --> 00:39:50,470 from different types of peoples. 672 00:39:50,471 --> 00:39:52,389 Like I never had the Kurdish friend, 673 00:39:52,390 --> 00:39:55,642 I had never had people that was all like me, 674 00:39:55,643 --> 00:39:58,979 and I was lacking so much richness in my life. 675 00:39:58,980 --> 00:40:01,523 Thanks to that, everybody's the same. 676 00:40:01,524 --> 00:40:05,277 People are a real democracy. 677 00:40:05,278 --> 00:40:07,946 People learn to speak... 678 00:40:07,947 --> 00:40:09,907 Tear gas connecting people. 679 00:40:09,908 --> 00:40:12,243 Tear gas connecting people. 680 00:40:12,244 --> 00:40:14,453 You run away together. 681 00:40:24,256 --> 00:40:28,050 Democracy is always a fragile thing. 682 00:40:28,051 --> 00:40:30,719 92 years ago, modern Turkey was assembled 683 00:40:30,720 --> 00:40:33,847 from the fragments of the Ottoman Empire. 684 00:40:33,848 --> 00:40:36,558 It has always struggled to find a balance 685 00:40:36,559 --> 00:40:38,602 between those in power and the consent 686 00:40:38,603 --> 00:40:42,314 of its widely diverse population. 687 00:40:42,315 --> 00:40:44,608 Since the filming of this episode, 688 00:40:44,609 --> 00:40:46,235 Turkey's newly elected parliament 689 00:40:46,236 --> 00:40:48,404 failed to form a coalition, 690 00:40:48,405 --> 00:40:52,284 and the president quickly called for new elections. 691 00:40:56,662 --> 00:40:58,747 At the same time, 692 00:40:58,748 --> 00:41:01,376 - he's revved up military action against Kurdish - opposition forces 693 00:41:01,379 --> 00:41:03,294 In both southeastern Turkey 694 00:41:03,295 --> 00:41:06,589 and across the border in Kurdish Iraq. 695 00:41:10,218 --> 00:41:13,595 Many claim that he effectively plunged Turkey into conflict 696 00:41:13,596 --> 00:41:17,682 in a bid to take advantage of fear and uncertainty 697 00:41:17,683 --> 00:41:20,269 and improve his party's chances of success. 698 00:41:20,270 --> 00:41:24,148 This is not an unreasonable assumption on anyone's part. 699 00:41:24,149 --> 00:41:26,233 Fear works. 700 00:41:26,234 --> 00:41:28,944 Fear, gets votes. 701 00:41:28,945 --> 00:41:32,824 The opposition had hoped that the tide was turning. 702 00:41:34,451 --> 00:41:39,622 It remains to be seen if they have any reason to hope.